It can be a fulfilling experience to train your dog to go from apartment living to a yard life, for both you and your pet. It’s critical to realize that this change calls for perseverance, consistency, and a few minor methodological tweaks. Dogs need consistency and clear direction to thrive, so it’s important to set them up for success.
Although yard living gives your dog more room to run around and play, there are drawbacks as well. It may be necessary to train them new limits and manners appropriate for a bigger setting. With the correct methods, this process can be entertaining, whether it’s learning boundaries for their freedom of movement or how to deal with outside distractions.
With the help of this guide, you can help your dog seamlessly transition to their new outdoor lifestyle by giving them useful tips and strategies. Your dog can be happy and well-behaved in the yard with a little work and commitment.
- How it should be: requirements for a "dog house" on the street
- Stages of building a dog house
- Stage 1. Selection of materials
- Stage 2. Choosing a place where the "house" will stand
- Stage 3. Construction
- Stage 4. Painting
- Stage 5. Preparation for the tenant’s settlement
- Why the dog does not accept the booth?
- Rules for accustoming a dog to a booth
- Algorithm for accustoming a puppy to life in a kennel
- Training a puppy to the booth: important nuances
- How to train an adult animal to spend the night in a kennel
- Option 1: the dog lived outdoors
- Option 2: the dog has lived in an apartment all its life
- The first days in the kennel: stock up on patience and treats
- Tricks for accustoming a dog to life in a kennel
- Additional ways to accustom a dog to a kennel
- Video on the topic
- Second dog in the house. How to avoid conflicts and jealousy? Rules for communication between two or more dogs
- How to train a dog to a kennel?Teach to live in a kennel!
- Where the dog should live? ABCs of a happy dog owner. Issue 3
- How to train a dog to a kennel in the yard from an apartment
How it should be: requirements for a "dog house" on the street
- Suitable size. The four-legged guard should not be cramped or too spacious in the booth. The optimal depth of the room is calculated so that the dog can easily turn around inside and sit down without touching the roof with the tips of its ears. The width should allow the dog to lie freely on the floor. At the same time, an overly spacious home will be cold and uncomfortable.
- Eco-friendly material. It is recommended to build a booth from natural materials, warm and hypoallergenic. It is best if it is dry wood. This point requires careful preparation, so we will dwell on it in detail below.
- Absence of puddles and humidity. It should be dry in the booth, since constant stay in a wet room can contribute to the development of various diseases. In order for water to properly drain from the roof during rain, the roof should be made with a slope of 10% to the back wall of the booth. In addition, before settling the pet there, you need to check whether the roof is leaking.
- Warmth and comfort. When assembling a dog house, the boards should be nailed as close to each other as possible so as not to expose the pet to drafts in winter and late autumn. If the dog will live in northern regions with particularly severe winters, the booth should be lined from the inside with heat-insulating material.
- Absence of danger. Before letting the animal inside, you need to check the floor and walls of the booth for protruding nails or screws so as not to injure the animal.
Since the recently hired guard will be residing in his home for at least ten years, you must approach the building’s design with extreme caution. In addition to being cozy for its owner, the booth should blend in with the surroundings and be a good approach to the overall idea of a personal plot.
A dog house’s occupant should find it cozy.
Stages of building a dog house
You must completely make your pet’s new home safe and enjoyable before you can begin to teach it to love it. On the other hand, some dog owners overlook their dog’s home because they think their dog can live anywhere. This myth can be debunked with an explanation of every step involved in building a dog house. These phases have to be completed precisely as outlined in the instructions for the house to be considered decent.
Since a dog house isn’t constructed for a year or two, it’s crucial to take their growth into account.
Stage 1. Selection of materials
Selecting dry wood for the walls and flooring is preferable. It shouldn’t be rotten and old. Fresh dried pine is the best choice. Such a home will be both ecologically friendly and cozy, with a dry, warm interior. Another benefit for delicate animals is that allergies are almost never triggered by the scent of wood.
Roofing felt is typically used to cover the roof. This material is dependable enough to keep rain and strong winds out of the dog’s house. The roof should ideally be removable to facilitate easier interior cleaning.
Pine board that has been planed
Stage 2. Choosing a place where the "house" will stand
- You should choose a place hidden from the sun, so that the dog does not suffer from the heat in the summer;
- It is not recommended to put the booth near chicken coops, piggeries and other buildings for the residence of livestock;
- It is best to place the booth so that its front part faces the side with minimal gusts of wind;
- The entrance to the owner"s house should be visible from the booth, if possible.
The dog will be able to welcome the owner each time he leaves the door if the booth’s entrance is situated to face the owner’s residence. In this manner, the animal will be less lonely without the owner’s company and games.
Crucial! Most owners think it best to position the kennel near the boundary. You can shield your dog from wind and direct sunlight with a high fence. However, keep in mind that prolonged darkness can be just as harmful to a dog as direct sun exposure, so you should figure out the "golden mean."
A lovely and unique home for a dog that can stand on its own and won’t flood during the intense rainy season
Stage 3. Construction
It is crucial to take into account that the dog will grow since the booth won’t be constructed for another year or two. particularly in case the booth is designed for a puppy. It is essential to ascertain the puppy’s maximum adult dimensions. This can be carried out in the nursery where the baby was purchased or on themed websites. You should factor in an additional 5 to 10 cm to the maximum dimensions of a lying, standing, and sitting dog when determining the booth’s parameters.
A handmade booth is the ideal choice for your pet.
Starting the kennel’s construction on a hill will prevent water from flowing inside during spring floods and heavy downpours. There are three phases to the booth’s direct construction.
Table 1. A dog booth’s construction phases.
Stages in order | Description |
---|---|
1. Laying the floor | Construction of the booth always begins from the bottom. If it is not possible to put the booth on a hill, you can take two large square beams on which to fix the floorboard. On top of it, it is worth fixing a sheet of plywood so that the dog"s claws do not get stuck in the floor cracks. |
2. Construction of walls | The walls, as we have already found out, should be made of dry wood. The boards should be fastened to each other at a minimum distance to avoid drafts. The holes between the boards are insulated with mineral wool, polystyrene foam or felt. In the front part of the booth, you need to provide a spacious opening-exit, over which a canopy is needed from rain and sun – in case the dog wants to sit outside. And a vestibule at the entrance will protect the kennel from dirt and drafts. |
3. Roof decking | The roof should be made as strong as possible, as some dogs like to climb on their house, and you shouldn"t deprive them of this pleasure. It is better to choose a durable and waterproof material: for example, roofing felt or linoleum. As a rule, the roof is made single-pitched or double-pitched. |
The roof should not be overly steep; a maximum slope of 10 cm is permitted. Selecting a roof with a single pitch will enable the shaggy guard to add another viewpoint for the surrounding area. He will have hours to spend lying on the roof taking in the surroundings.
Different style dog kennels
Stage 4. Painting
It is strictly prohibited to apply strong-smelling paints to the kennel and to apply drying oil to the wood. Since animals’ sense of smell is far more acute than ours, they will find such a smell intolerable. The dog might outright object to going inside a house with that much stench.
Let the kennel to be yellow and green!
Stage 5. Preparation for the tenant’s settlement
The last step in getting the kennel ready for the dog’s comfortable stay is to prepare it. It is preferable to cover the floor with hay, sawdust, or other environmentally friendly material.
After you’ve succeeded in weaning the pet from marking their territory, you place a tarpaulin over the grass cushion and soft bedding on top of it. To provide extra protection from drafts, a tarpaulin can be placed over the kennel entrance. To prevent your pet from freezing, it is preferable to place something warm—such as an old sheepskin or a sheepskin coat—on the bedding in the winter and chilly autumn.
Crucial! To keep the inside dry and clean, the bedding needs to be completely replaced and washed on a regular basis. The appearance of parasites and infectious diseases will be aided by the absence of unhygienic conditions.
The straw bedding is ready, but the booth needs to be painted.
Why the dog does not accept the booth?
- Smell. A sharp or simply unpleasant smell can scare the dog away. Dogs have a very well-developed sense of smell, so any little thing can cause discomfort.
- Someone else"s booth. Dogs are wary of the smell of other animals, it often irritates them. Therefore, if a puppy got a booth from another dog, he most likely will not even go there.
- Crowding. The concept of "cramped, but not offended" is not familiar to dogs. Their house should be spacious so that the dog fits there comfortably. But often the reason is far-fetched: after living in a spacious apartment, any booth will seem cramped. The discomfort will go away on its own when the dog gets used to the new habitat.
- Unfamiliar conditions. The main reason may be the dog"s long-term residence in the apartment. The pet is accustomed to a comfortable life among people, where it was warm and cozy. Because of this, the dog may in every way resist life alone in a kennel, which is so uncomfortable compared to a spacious apartment.
These are not the only things that could make the dog react negatively to the booth. The pet may be very stressed out about moving to an outdoor booth because he has lived at home for too long. Some puppies find it difficult to adjust to being alone or to live in a booth because of the extreme stress they endured during their early years.
Since every person reacts differently in stressful circumstances, the dog may come up with its own excuses for refusing to go to a new home.
In its home, this dog is content.
Rules for accustoming a dog to a booth
- at the beginning of the adaptation do not leave the pet alone for a long time: it must get used to the booth in the presence of its beloved owner;
- you can put things familiar to the puppy in the kennel – toys, old bedding with its smell;
- after the puppy tries to go into the kennel, be sure to treat it with a "treat" and praise it;
- if the obstinate dog continues to stand his ground, you should take him into the kennel for a short time, increasing the time spent inside each day;
- if possible, it is better to refuse to accustom a puppy to life in a kennel in winter: a puppy not accustomed to the cold will not be comfortable walking in the cold near the kennel.
The kennel must remain where it was when it was first constructed; it cannot be moved. If not, the puppy might become anxious and stop approaching the kennel when it is in a new location.
Personally, I wouldn’t move into such a "kennel."
Algorithm for accustoming a puppy to life in a kennel
The kennel is therefore eager to meet the little owner, who ought to show up shortly. The owner must double-check everything, including checking for sharp nail tips poking out from inside and prepping the roof by pouring water on it to ensure it does not leak. Since it’s not advisable to upgrade to a large home, the size of the house should already fit the dimensions of an adult dog. The table below provides a step-by-step procedure algorithm for a puppy’s initial kennel training.
The detailed procedure for acclimating a puppy to a kennel is provided in Table 2.
Stage | How it goes and what are the features |
---|---|
1 | Put several of the puppy"s toys in the kennel, which will remind him of his old home. |
2 | When the puppy has just been brought to a new habitat, you should give him some time to get used to the territory. Let him walk a little in the garden, sniff new unfamiliar objects. |
3 | If the puppy has already walked a little in the yard, you can begin to introduce him to the kennel. Place him next to the kennel, let him walk around it and get to know it better. Perhaps the puppy will go inside on his own and want to sit there for a while if he likes the kennel. |
4 | The owner should leave the puppy alone for a while so that he feels independent and calmly gets used to it. At that time, you can watch the puppy from the window in order to arrive in time if the puppy starts to panic or runs into a dog that accidentally came in. |
5 | After half an hour of calm walks near the booth, the owner should join in. He approaches the puppy and invites him to go inside the booth, if he has not done so himself. You can use a treat or a favorite toy to "lure" the puppy inside. |
6 | When the baby enters the booth and sits there, praise him and give him a "treat". Sit for a while near the entrance while the puppy is inside, so that panic does not arise. |
7 | For the first stay in the booth, an hour is enough, further training sessions should be gradually made longer. When the puppy feels relaxed and calm in the booth in the presence of the owner, he can leave the baby for a short time so that he gets used to the fact that he will live alone in the kennel. |
But things don’t always go as planned during the training process. The owner does not detect any strange odor, but some particularly stubborn babies won’t even enter the booth. Maybe the puppy is still getting used to its surroundings. It is advised to let the infant sleep and play with him, and to resume the lesson the following day, when the surroundings will not be as strange and unsettling.
The puppy has two options: he can immediately lie down peacefully in the booth or he can resist for a while.
Training a puppy to the booth: important nuances
- You can start accustoming him to life in the booth only when it is fully equipped: the roof does not leak, all the cracks are sealed, there is a cozy bedding and favorite toys on the floor.
- The most important thing for a person is to be patient, give the puppy your attention and care. Then he will respond with gratitude and do what the owner expects from him.
- You need to spend more time with the puppy outside, in active games and training. You need to occupy all the baby"s free time so that he, tired and happy, happily goes to the warm booth to rest.
- In no case should you awaken negative emotions in a puppy: lock him alone in a dark kennel, do not force him let out of it, scold. This behavior of the owner will not only not help, but completely kill the desire to approach the new house.
- Near the booth it is recommended to put a bowl of food, gradually rearranging it closer to the entrance. So an unfamiliar booth will be associated with a puppy with something tasty and pleasant.
You must place a bowl of food close to the booth and fill it with delectable items.
- The owner with all his appearance and actions must show that the presence of a puppy in the booth is welcome for him and is encouraged. Stroke him when he sits in a booth, give a treat.
- You can not put the puppy in a booth against his will and lock there. This will lead to psychological injury, which will ruin the character of the pet.
- At first, the puppy must sleep in the house. Overnights in the booth begin only after it is fully mastered in it during the day and will be able to stay there alone.
Late spring or summer is the ideal time for a dog to start getting used to living in a kennel. Dog handlers’ experience has shown that a puppy’s acclimation to a kennel can also be influenced by the specifics of its pedigree. For instance, the puppy will adjust to new circumstances more quickly if its ancestors were outdoor guard dogs. With a puppy whose parents have always resided in the home, the owner will need to put in a lot of work.
Crucial! Your pet should never be punished for refusing to go into the kennel. Furthermore prohibited are severe and violent behavior patterns and dragging a resisting pet inside the house while wearing a leash. Rather, consider the reasons behind the dog’s aversion to being inside and address the issues.
A mature canine in a kennel designed to resemble a traditional brick home with a tiled roof
It can be a fulfilling experience to train a dog to go from apartment living to a yard life, which improves their happiness and general wellbeing. Establish a secure and friendly outdoor area first, and then gradually acclimate your dog to this unfamiliar surroundings. Your dog will adapt and flourish in their new yard life with the support of regular routines, positive reinforcement, and stimulating activities. This will guarantee that your dog feels safe and loved in their new territory.
How to train an adult animal to spend the night in a kennel
Puppies find it easier to adjust to a new home than adults do, particularly if they have spent their entire lives with their owner in a warm home. As a result, the training philosophies will vary based on the animal’s previous environment before kenneling.
Option 1: the dog lived outdoors
Animals that have lived on the streets are typically easy and calm to train. especially for stray dogs that have been cleaned, fed, and picked up. For these people, a kennel that is warm, dry, and has a food smell will always be a welcome home.
- Pet interest. If the pet has not shown any initial curiosity about the new home, you need to give it time to get to know the surrounding area better. An adult dog can be left alone so that it can run around the area and get used to it a little.
- Feeding process. All meals should take place near the kennel so that the dog quickly gets used to the new home and perceives it as part of something pleasant.
- Consistency and persistence. You cannot put too much pressure on the dog, forcing it to sit in the kennel. Let the process happen gradually, but the owner must be persistent, repeatedly offering the dog to go inside.
Breeders who talk about how they trained an adult dog to sleep in a kennel sometimes attribute the pet’s ability to "move" to a warm house to the cold. Certain animals enter the kennel and walk around it calmly, but they sleep outside. They only move into the kennel when the weather turns extremely cold.
During training to the kennel, the dog speaks with the owner.
Option 2: the dog has lived in an apartment all its life
- Abrupt changes in the dog"s usual life can lead to severe stress and negative emotions. During this period, you need to support the dog, give it as much care and affection as possible.
- You cannot leave the dog alone, someone familiar must be nearby. It is best if this is a beloved owner. The dog is used to the fact that in the apartment he always got into the animal"s field of vision, and it will be difficult to wean off this.
- Being in the kennel should be dosed. The first 3-4 days after the dog itself entered the kennel, it can stay there for no more than two hours. You should monitor the pet’s condition and, if everything is in order, gradually increase the time every day.
This dog used to reside in an apartment.
The veterinarian claims that a significant alteration in the dog’s living circumstances has a significant impact on its psychological state. As a result, you must gradually acclimate the animal to a new area so that it can thoroughly investigate every bush. Even if the dog has outgrown its home, having bedding or a bed that it once slept on will help it stay connected to that sense of place. A methodical approach is a reliable way to relieve potential stress and reinforce positive motivation.
Crucial! Experts state that having a dog kennel outside of a house is better for hunting and security dogs. The dog’s immune system is strengthened by constant exposure to fresh air. Breeders’ firsthand knowledge demonstrates that a dog’s digestive system, coat quality, and general health are all improved by living as a pet in a kennel.
Especially creative owners build their dogs actual two-story "apartments" with a sunroom and a stairway.
The first days in the kennel: stock up on patience and treats
- Constantly encourage the dog if it is sitting in the kennel, so that it goes in there as willingly as possible. Stroke it, give it "goodies". It is necessary to stock up well on the dog"s favorite treat and appease the pet with it if it has successfully endured another stage of being in the kennel.
- Start training gradually with 40-50 minutes in the kennel. During this time, you need to monitor the dog"s well-being and behavior, if it behaves adequately, the next day increase the time to one and a half to two hours.
- Create a favorable atmosphere around the dog, do not allow the dog to whine for a long time. You cannot bring the dog to the point where it feels abandoned and unwanted, so spend as much time as possible near the kennel.
- At night, take the dog into the house so that it spends the night in familiar conditions.
The dog won’t adjust to life in the kennel more quickly if you put it on a chain right away. Out of desperation, the pet might accept the situation, but it won’t become accustomed to it. Furthermore, you cannot initially leave a dog alone in a new place, especially if he is a puppy. The infant’s fear of the dark, loneliness, or even just a strange environment could make him very afraid of things in the future.
Giving the dog a tasty bone is imperative if the owner is happy with him.
Tricks for accustoming a dog to life in a kennel
The owner will stop at nothing to help the dog eventually adjust to living in the kennel and start to see it as its own space. Street dog owners divulged some insider information that aided in their training.
Table 3: Quick and stress-free kennel acclimatization techniques for dogs.
Name | How it is carried out and how it affects |
---|---|
Warm bottle | You can put a plastic bottle filled with hot water and wrapped in a towel in the kennel. The "neighborhood" with a warm bottle has a calming effect on the dog and helps it get used to it faster. Puppies are pressed against such a heat source and quickly fall asleep. |
Alarm | Some owners recommend putting a loudly ticking clock behind the rear wall of the kennel. The dog will hear the sound familiar from home life and will get used to it faster. |
Fresh meat | The dog should not starve, since the absence of timely meals will create additional stress. You should stock up fresh meat, delicious seeds and porridge and regularly feed the dog. A well -fed and satisfied dog adapts much faster to new conditions than an emaciated hungry dog. |
Timely encouragement | Additionally, you need to buy the "delicious" that the dog loves. It can be anything: pieces of cheese, dog cookies, crackers, pieces of jerky. But you need to give them only when the dog is inside the booth. This will save good associations with this place. |
Simulation of bad weather | To force the dog to go into the kennel on its own, some owners decide on this trick: they spill water on the soil near the kennel or install a sprinkler. The puppy tries to hide from the water and hides in a new house. |
Additional ways to accustom a dog to a kennel
- The kennel should be left open, do not focus your attention and the dog"s attention on it. During active play on the street, the owner, as if by accident, throws the ball into the kennel and waits for the dog to enter it and bring the ball. When he does this, be sure to reward your pet.
- You should explain to your pet that it is not scary in the "house", it does not pose a danger, but allows you to have a pleasant and interesting time. To do this, with each meal, move the bowl with food deeper into the structure. At the last stage, the dog should go completely inside and eat there.
- You need to prove to the future guard that the kennel is safe. If space allows, the owner can climb inside and call the dog to him, after which it must be praised and stroked. Afterwards, you can play with your favorite objects to keep the animal inside longer.
- You can wait for the rain and go outside with your dog to play. Cold and rain often speed up the adaptation process, and the dog itself goes into the kennel, where it is warm and dry. If this happens, be sure to praise the dog, and if it still hasn’t found shelter, point to the kennel and show that it is dry and cozy.
Canine in the precipitation
- You can put something in the kennel that smells like the owner – a T-shirt, a sweater, old jeans. A familiar smell allows you to quickly get used to the changed conditions.
- This method is only suitable for a few dogs. The owner invites a dog that is already accustomed to the kennel and with which the pet plays with pleasure. A good example of a dog that comes in and calmly lies in the kennel should help the trainee get used to the house.
Maybe every dog enjoys a good meal. You can give it a tasty sugar beef bone or a "bone" composed of sinews that you purchased from a veterinary supply store. Give the dog the treat and place it inside the building. Many dogs walk right into the kennel and start chewing on a bone.
The dog emerges from the original kennel, which looks like a home from a storybook.
Step | Description |
1. Create a Routine | Establish a regular schedule for feeding and potty breaks to help your dog adjust. |
2. Gradual Transition | Start by letting your dog spend short periods outside, gradually increasing the time. |
3. Positive Reinforcement | Use treats and praise to reward your dog for spending time in the yard. |
4. Provide Shelter | Make sure there"s a comfortable, safe space for your dog to stay in the yard. |
5. Socialization | Introduce your dog to the yard environment and other pets gradually. |
It can be satisfying to train your dog to move from apartment living to a yard. Begin by gradually acclimating your dog to the outdoor area. As you keep an eye on them, let them explore to help them feel comfortable in their new surroundings.
Maintaining consistency is essential. Set up a schedule for feeding, playing, and outside training. This promotes positive behavior in your dog and aids in their adjustment to their new life.
Remember to give them lots of both physical and mental stimulation. Maintain your dog’s happiness and energy by training them in agility or fetch. They will eventually flourish in their outdoor area, becoming more at ease and content with their new way of life.